i finally ordered some photoetching supplies and i’m looking forward to experimenting at Graphic Arts Workshop (GAW) the cooperative print shop where i can work. photoetching is different from photogravure in that it’s less three dimensional and often easier. It can be done in a number of ways, many not involving copper. but i love working with copper, it’s such a welcoming material. you can continue to work the copper after you’ve etch the image.
i’ve chosen to test three products that are sheets of photosensitive resist that you apply to the cooper: Z*Acryl, PurEtch, and ImageOn HD.
- Z*Acryl can be found in a few places online, including their own website, which seems to have the best price.
- PurEtch seems to be available from Cape Fear Press only (for US orders- there may be additional resources for international orders).
- ImageOn is available at Takach Press, which also supplies Z*Acryl and many printmaking supplies.
The prices i paid varied widely between the products:
ImageOn HD: 12 x 15 = $29.00
Z*Acryl: 12 x 15 = $48.00
PurEtch: 24.75″ x 12” = $19.00
i think i’m rooting for PurEtch to be the best for my needs because it’s much more affordable!
they all have a similar process in that you adhere the photosensitive film to the copper, expose the film to UV light with a full-sized positive (the opposite of a negative) and then “develop” it by washing away the unexposed areas.
dark areas in the image are dark in the positive, blocking the UV light. dark areas are not exposed to the light. the light areas are exposed to the light. in the light areas the film reacts tot the light and hardens. when the film is “developed” the light areas remain and the dark areas wash away to expose the copper.
the remaining film then acts as a resist to the etchant (in this case Ferric Chloride, which is not exactly and acid but bites into the copper). where the film remains the etchant can’t reach the copper and the copperplate remains unetched there. meanwhile the dark areas are well etched. the etched areas are recesses which hold ink during the printing process.
after the plate is etched the printmaker removes the remaining film from the copper plate which is now smooth in the light areas and etched with recesses to hold ink in the dark areas. the printmaker can ink, wipe and print the copperplate as any intaglio plate.
Each product has its particular features and procedures. Z*Acryl is “developed in a very weak (1%) solution of soda ash and water. Z*Acryl is dry laminated onto the copperplate. its top layer remains in place during exposure. aquatint can be applied After Development & Before etching. Z*Acryl can be redeveloped & re-etched if it looks like areas have not etched. just rinse the plate well and re-submerge in developer. then re-etch. Z*Acryl claims it’s thick enough for variable depth like photogravure!
PurEtch recommends a fussy wet laminating with squeegee and a very clean surface. they are very specific about degreasing the plate first.
PurEtch can be developed in tray or with a sprayer (like silk screen but lower pressure, such as a garden hose). they recommend curing the plate with additional UV and then a brief re-dip into soda ash before etching.
ImageOn HD can be wet or dry laminated. the manufacturer claims it’s slower and that slower means the ability to depict higher resolution. The ImaegOn HD plate is exposed and developed similar to the others but instead of curing with more UV light they recommend “fixing” with white vinegar and wash with water. i’m a little annoyed with them right now because they seem to hold back info and push the book. also, they are not taking web orders, you have to call them.
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